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Peak climbing in Nepal

Island Peak, Mera Peak and Lobuche East are trekking peaks: summits above 6,000 m that you climb with a guide after a trek to base camp.

Climbers holding a Hong Kong flag and a High 5 Island Peak Expedition banner, on the summit of Island Peak, October 2016

इम्जा छे

Island Peak

6,160 m
from US$1,619

Trekking peaks we climb

Three peaks of 15 to 19 days, all above 6,000 m.

How to choose a peak

Mera Peak is the highest of the three and the least technical. Lobuche East is the steepest, and Island Peak sits between them, with a short steep headwall near the top.

Island Peak's grade, PD+, is an alpine grade meaning a little difficult, at the harder end of that grade. On all three you walk in crampons (metal spikes that strap onto your boots for ice and hard snow) and carry an ice axe. Tell us the highest you have been and what you have climbed before, and we will suggest a peak.

  1. Island Peak

    Height
    6,160 m
    Days
    15 days
    Grade
    PD+
    Guide price
    from US$1,6192023 price for 16 days
    When to go
    Spring (April to May) and autumn (October to November)
    How hard it is
    A glacier climb with a steep finish. You scramble up a rocky gully, cross a crevassed glacier roped together, then climb about 100 m of snow and ice at up to 45 to 50 degrees on fixed ropes, and abseil (lower yourself on the rope) back down. Summit day takes 10 to 12 hours.
    Permits
    • Sagarmatha National Park entry permit
    • Khumbu Pasang Lhamu Rural Municipality trek card (local entry permit)
    • Nepal Mountaineering Association climbing permit
  2. Mera Peak

    Height
    6,470 m
    Days
    19 days
    Grade
    Moderate to adventurous
    Guide price
    from US$1,9192023 price for 16 days
    When to go
    Spring (April to May) and autumn (October to November)
    How hard it is
    The highest of the three and the least technical. Most of the route is roped walking on a gently angled glacier, with a short steep slope to the summit on a fixed rope. The altitude is the hard part. Summit day takes 11 to 12 hours.
    Permits
    • Makalu Barun National Park entry permit
    • Khumbu Pasang Lhamu Rural Municipality trek card (local entry permit)
    • Nepal Mountaineering Association climbing permit
  3. Lobuche East

    Height
    6,090 m
    Days
    15 days
    Grade
    Moderate to adventurous
    Guide price
    from US$1,9002017 price for 16 days
    When to go
    Spring (April to May) and autumn (October to November); Everest teams climb it in April for acclimatisation, and some Ama Dablam teams in October
    How hard it is
    The steepest of the three. Above high camp you climb snow and ice at around 45 degrees, with sections of about 50 degrees, on fixed ropes to an exposed ridge, and abseil on the way down. Most teams stop at a false summit below the last technical pitch. Summit day takes 8 to 10 hours.
    Permits
    • Sagarmatha National Park entry permit
    • Khumbu Pasang Lhamu Rural Municipality trek card (local entry permit)
    • Nepal Mountaineering Association climbing permit

What climbers have said

“Food and tent were just more than our expectations in High Camp of Mera peak. For my next expedition, I will surely choose High5 again.”

Refai Arafat Rossi, Mera Peak, Oct 2019, on TripAdvisor

“Narbin at the Katmandu office took care remotely of the climbing permit in 2 days (a task that might take a week for others), and arranged a guide for my desired day of the summit.”

Vova Anisimov, Island Peak, Oct 2019, on TripAdvisor

Read all 21 reviews on TripAdvisor

Ask us about a climb

Tell us which peak you are thinking of and when you can travel. We will send the plan, the permit details and this season's price.

WhatsApp or call +977 985-1180155, or email info@high5adventures.com.